El blazer se transforma hasta feminizarse por completo. No es solo que se acerque al cuerpo y encoja –como propone Haider Ackermann–; tampoco basta que crezca hasta el oversize de Stella McCartney; ni siquiera que se depure hasta el minimalismo de Armani. Ahora se superpone a pares, como vimos en el desfile de Karl Lagerfeld para Chanel, fiel a la máxima del lujo «dos mejor que una».
En cuestión de pantalones poco a poco las pinzas ganan terreno; pero también los pantalones zanahoria –anchos arriba y estrechos abajo– y los pitillos y pantalones rectos, con detalles de sastrería masculina, pero sin pinzas.
Las camisas ganan enteros a las blusas –aunque las de lazo no se dejan ningunear–. Las más discretas ponen cuello a los jerséis a caja y las más llamativas se hacen con una pechera de volantes o un plastrón decorado para poner delicadeza donde antes hubo rigor.
La fórmula perfecta: mezclar detalles, accesorios, acabados, patrones y colores femeninos con los básicos masculinos.
With the arrival of fall collections, designers have confirmed the trend female: male turn style cabinet to get the parts they want to put them. That you put back the blazer on the pedestal of the essential items, and that in the sack includes shirt, pants, the tabard, coat, suit, tuxedo, the trench and up the robe and pajamas. But back to that femininity, which leaves almost unrecognizable executive classic silhouettes.
In a season in which the geometry is shown as an element of maximum influence, to feminize blazer becomes full. Not only do you approach the body and shrink, as proposed by Haider Ackermann-, nor enough to grow to oversized Stella McCartney, or even to be debugged to the minimalism of Armani. Now is superimposed in pairs, as we saw in the parade of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, faithful to the utmost of luxury "two better than one."
In a matter of pants, no one agrees. Slowly gaining ground clamps, but also the carrot-wide pants up and down narrow and skinny, and straight pants, with masculine tailoring details, but without tweezers.
Shirts blouses win the whole, though the loop does not leave any. The most discreet place to neck sweaters and the most striking case is made with a ruffled front or to put delicately decorated plastron where before there was rigor.
The perfect formula: mix details, accessories, finishes, patterns and colors with the basics male female.
